Walking the Ghats and Galis of Varanasi

October 18, 2026

Varanasi’s old city is pedestrian. Cars and buses stop at Godowlia or about 1.5 km short of the temple, and the galis (lanes) beyond are for walkers, with e-rickshaws on the wider stretches. Five routes cover most of it. Prices are in Indian rupees (INR, about 95 to the US dollar) and are approximate. Carry a zipped bag and bottled water.

Route 1: Godowlia to the temple

Walk the lanes from Godowlia toward Kashi Vishwanath, watching for cows and motorbikes. Kachori Gali offers kachori with sabzi for breakfast, and the lassi stop Blue Lassi is close by. Kashi Chaat Bhandar serves tamatar chaat, and most sources place it around Godowlia. At the temple, phones, cameras, gadgets and pens must go in a free locker. Foreign visitors can buy an INR 600 darshan ticket at the head-office help desk with the original passport. Turn back before the cremation grounds, which are not a place for sightseers. The temple trust FAQ gives the rules.

Route 2: Assi south to Kedar Ghat

From Assi Ghat the path passes Tulsi Ghat and Lolark Kund and ends at Kedar Ghat, where the temple is painted red and white. This is the quieter side of the riverfront. In flood season, July to September, the lower steps go under water, so check conditions and keep to the higher steps.

Route 3: Thatheri Bazaar and the loom quarters

The brass market of Thatheri Bazaar is also where Ram Bhandar sells kachori with sabzi and maalpua. The weaving districts of Madanpura, Alaipura and Lallapura produce Banarasi brocade, which carries a geographical indication. Go to a weaver’s workshop yourself, and treat any shop a driver or stranger recommends with suspicion, since commissions inflate the price.

Route 4: Dawn at Assi

Subah-e-Banaras is free and begins before sunrise, about 45 minutes ahead of it. It lasts roughly two hours and features chanting, an aarti, a fire ritual, raga and yoga. After it, the ghats northward make a good morning walk. The official programme page explains the schedule.

Route 5: Dusk at Dashashwamedh

Arrive 30 to 45 minutes before sunset, around 5:45 pm in winter and 6:45 pm in summer. The 45-minute Ganga Aarti is free from the steps.

With a guide

VaranasiWalks starts from Assi Ghat and runs walks of roughly 2.5 to 3 hours, and Roobaroo Walks leads heritage routes. A guided walk from Assi to Manikarnika is a standard offering, and it passes the burning ghat without going in. Never photograph pyres, bodies or mourners. A restoration project is underway at Manikarnika, so conditions may change. Anyone who offers to show you the cremations from a rooftop will ask for “wood money” afterwards. To see the choices, visit VaranasiWalks or browse Varanasi walking tours , and confirm the route and the price per person.

Staying comfortable

Walk early or late from April to June, when temperatures reach 45 degrees C. Wear shoes that slip off easily. Do not bathe in the Ganga.